Dear Opera-Buddy
So I said I'd give you a running
commentary on what is going on in Bavaria. (I hope this is really
what you want. If I had had to sell my golden tickets, I think I
would have refused to even think about Wagner for a year – like the
athletes who just missed out in being in "team GB" and went
off to Las Vegas to pretend the Olympics weren't happening. Did you
tape the closing ceremony, by the way? The German Lady in the bar
last night said that the Opening Ceremony was so good she could
hardly believe that the English had done it... I mentioned Paul
McCartney and she said that his song was the best thing about it, so
I was probably wrong about that.)
I realise that it is pathetic that I
should have reached the age of very nearly 35 and still be as
terrified of flying as I still am. Its not the flying bit. I entirely
trust that the wings are not going to drop off the planes, but I
spend the entire 24 hours worrying about things which are going to go
wrong, as, will they refuse to let me on the plane wearing jeans, is
my pass port out of date despite saying 2015, how on earth am I going
to get to a hotel in a foreign country in the middle of the night. (I
have decided to make no attempt to speak German to anyone: much safer
to grin and point and, if they turn out to speak English, which lets
face it they do, to complain about the awfulness of language teaching
in English schools and say that it you understand that it is much
improved nowadays.) Travel in fact went without a hitch: Taxi from
Munich to airport hotel, shuttle from hotel back to airport, metro
from airport to station. Since we were last here, German stations
have become much more like English stations, with lots of different
kinds of coffee and sandwiches.
(I am writing this in the breakfast
buffet on Tuesday morning. It sounds as if Kundry is telling Percival
that there is too much peril on the big TV in the front lobby, which
is a nice touch.)
Obviously resorting to national
stereotypes of any kind is very cruel, so I shall merely say that all
the German people I have met are wildly eccentric, drink copious
amounts of Guinness and kiss the blarney stone. Oh, and that all the
trains run on time.
Any way you don't want to hear about
this, you want to hear about the opera. I got to Bayreuth by about
1PM as planned, and by 2PM people in the hotel were wearing tuxes and
or dinner jackets (possible even la smokings) eating very small
sandwiches at the free buffet, and waiting for the shuttle to take
them to the Festspeilhaus. (The shuttle was designed to look like and
old fashioned vintage car, but it would have been better if it has
been an ordinary minibus but bigger.) Reception set me up with a
German lady who wanted to buy the spare ticket. We didn't manage much
conversation. "It is beautiful, on top of the hill, yes? Very
singular." "Yes, Covent Garden is really not quite the
same." (There seemed, in fact, to be very few English people
around: quite a large number of spectacularly over dressed Japanese
people, though.) I opted for best waistcoat tie and hat rather than
tux, although you will be glad to know that as a result of
weightwatchers I can get into the smart suit if needs be. Probably
for Parsifal. (I bought a pair of cufflinks on the station. That was
quite fun: no, I do not want something with union jacks on them, or
gold plated, or with diamonds. I want something costing about five
pounds to keep my shirt on.)
For future reference, there is a very
posh looking restaurant in situ at the festival house, but there are
also kiosks selling champagne, coffee, ice cream, pretzels, official
Bayreuth bratwurst etc etc etc. Each interval technically lasts an
hour, although I think that means "the next act starts exactly 1
hour after the curtain goes down on the previous one". By the
time you've applauded and got in and got out again, you don't seem
really to have that long. (Better than insane Covent Garden 15 minute
breaks half way through Mastersingers, of course. The leisurely pace
of Bayreuth makes a real difference to your perception of opera, I
think: it feels much more as if you are watching three short opera
than that you've enlisted for a five hours of solid music. The end of
act 3 in particular felt a lot like the climax of a whole long
show.)
Of course, the last time we were here
we saw Dutchman / Hollander so we didn't have a chance to get blasé
about going in and out of the theatre I guess German fire regulations
must be different from ours, or else they don't apply to Wagner. The
whole of the main arena ("stalls" is to small a word) is a
mass of long rows, without an aisle of gangway in site...everyone has
to push past everyone else (efficiently if you are German, politely
if you are English). The comfortableness of the seats has been
massively exaggerated, especially by me. I almost had enough leg
room. The lady in front of me seemed to glare at me because my knees
were sticking into the back of her chair, but I explained in perfect
English that given my height and Wagner's acoustics, this was
probably unavoidable. The man behind be kept sticking is toes into my
bottom.
The programme notes say that the
question everyone asks about this production, to the exclusion of
everything else, is "why are the chorus dressed as rats". I
think that if you take a nice romantic fairy tale like Lohengrin and
dress the chorus as rats (black rats, mostly, but a few white rats,
and some pink rats during the love scenes) that is probably what you
can expect audiences to focus on. During some of the exposition
scenes, they lowered a big cine screen down from the ceiling and
illustrated the action with cartoons of rats running down roads,
being cut in half, and having crowns inside their heads. This didn't
really help very much. They were, I must admit, very good rats: there
was much action of them waving their little hands and a quite funny
scene in one of the musical interludes where two of them were chased
across the stage by people in green environmental suits, possibly
intended to be rat exterminators. This is, apparently supposed to
emphasis that Lohengrin is a very human opera about the relationships
between two human beings, and not a fairy tale about a man from the
land of the Grail and a magic swan at all. I mean, I like crazy
productions, I like to be challenged and I don't even mind being
annoyed, but I actually didn't understand what this was doing. Act
one begins with Lohengrin struggling to open some doors on a blank
white wall, possibly (if we agree with the programme) representing
Time; but the whole of the rest of the act seemed to be set in some
kind of laboratory, with the rat-chorus being poked by the
exterminators. About half way through (when Lohengrin arrives and
every body cheers up) they take of their rat costumes and spend the
rest of the act in bright yellow pimp-suits (the rat masks and tales
are suspend above the stage on wires.) This made me think of that
scene in the Phylida Lloyd ring when the vassals go from being grey
riot police to colourful wedding guests? But it wasn't nearly as well
done. Possibly we were supposed to think of them as the Common People
be experimented on? Lohengrin himself is done fairly straight, he
walks on from the back bathed in light, with a swan in a boat (or
possibly a bath) being carried by four of the rats. However, the
music – particularly the end of the first act when everyone is
singing joyfully about how Lohengrin has exonerated Elsa and is going
to lead them into battle against the Hungarians (is it Hungarians?
Foreigners, anyway) is quite brilliant: as everyone says the Bayreith
chorus is on a different level to anything you've heard anywhere
else.
(Getting the impression they'd like to
me leave the breakfast room and go somewhere else. Efficiently.)
….Resuming in a coffee shop in
Richardwagnerstreet. (Stratford doesn't have William Shakespeare
Avenue and Measure for Measure villas, does it. I am not going to
start doing that thing that people do in epistolary novels: "I
am afraid that my host is...is....I can barely say it.....") But
I quite definitely have just ordered dark mocha. I did my usual thing
of walking straight out of the hotel and finding myself in the mean
back streets of Bayreuth, but eventually worked out where I wanted to
be. Since Bayreuth is such a legend for us, its funny to think that
for the people who live here, its just a place, with a discount
supermarket and a sports centre and a disco describing itself as the
Number One Partyspot. I think englishspeakingpeople should sooncopy
the Germantalkingmethod of wordstogethersticking.
Coffee arrives slurp slurp.
Act Two of Lohengrin is if anything
even more grotesque; we start with the baddies (can't be bothered to
check spellings of names) plotting in what appears to be the wreakage
of a hearse, complete with dead horse. And rats. The producer really
likes that trick of moving scenery around the stage on invisible
casters. Elsa spends the first half of act 2 in a room within a room,
made of mirrors so she is talking to the reflection of herself, and,
unfortunately and unintentionally, I assume, the reflection of the
conductor. (It really is very strange and special not to be able to
see the orchestra or the conductor: you wonder why, when so much else
of Wagner's dramaturgy – good word – was copies and taken for
granted, I don't think there's anywhere else that hides the orchestra
under the floor. The stage is, I think, narrower – certainly more
square – than at Covent Garden – but it seems to go back
forever.) But the second half of the second act was so pretty that I
couldn't really complain about it, even though still don't really
follow it. The rats took their costumes off (again) and this time the
men rats were in tuxes and the lady rats were in bring pastal
coloured lolly pop dresses (they still had tails, though.) The act
finishes with Lohengrin and Elsa walking down the aisle to be married
in front of a cross. But two of the men in exterminator costumes come
and take the cross apart; but Lohengrin takes the pieces and holds
them in the air, so you end with Elsa kneeling in front of a cross
which Lohengrin is holding.
I had an official festival Bratwurst in
the interval.
The enthusiastic man in the bar tells
me that Lohengrin (the singer) has been the cause of a controversial
argument in the Germany, because his singing is not macho enough for
the classic Wagnerian parts; but that if he is too lyrical for
Sigmund he makes up for it by being such a good actor. (I didn't get
if he was saying that he had actually done straight acting parts, or
just that he acted far better than most opera singers too.)
Certainly, he had the great otherworldly voice for the big Lohengrin
arias, but was very natural and convincing in the love scenes with
Elsa. (Although they both suffered from Sad-actor-disease; throwing
each other across the stage and at one point Elsa curls up in a fetal
ball in the way real people don't.) The chorus actually got rid of
their masks altogether; they were wearing military uniforms with swan
insignia.
The big question is : how did they do
the scene where the swan transforms into Elas's brother? The answer
in this case being, they didn't; or rather, he didn't so much
transform as, er, hatch. I think everything had been so mad up to
this point that all we could do with the ending was to nod and say
"aha". When Lohengrin gives his answer to Elsa' question
about who he is, there is a large question mark projected on to the
back of the stage, which becomes an exclamation mark when he is
finished. Subtle. The boat comes back, this time as a large object
with a silk covering hanging on it, and a large swan embroidered on
the silk. At the last moment, Lohengrin whips the cover off and
underneath is, er, an egg. Lohengrin, with I have to say a completely
straight face, turns the egg slowly around, and reveals a large male
embryo (I take it that it was supposed to be the star-baby from 2001,
but by this stage, who knows). The embryo stands up and cuts its own
umbilical chord, by which point everyone else on stage, apart from
Lohengrin, has dropped dead. I have absolutely no idea.
They really do milk the applause in
Europe, don't they. Principles together, principles separately,
chorus master, chorus master and chorus....do the orchestra really
perform in casual clothes, just because we can't seem them? I somehow
assumed they'd be in full evening dress like BBC radio news readers.
There was definite booing from the
front rows as the curtain went down, but a proper standing ovation
for Lohengrin himself (a few people first off all, and then a few
more people, and eventual, everyone, even the England.) I think
that's a fair summary, actually, scattered booing for the production,
standing ovation for Lohengrin.
The reception just called to say they
have a buyer for Tannhäuser, so provided I can find someone for
Tristan, you get your money back. It's worth knowing for another
year: planning at trip to stay in Bayreuth and look at Ludwig's
castles, but with a very good chance of buying tickets on the day.
Although if it is true that the festival has loosened up about "the
black market" it may be that this won't be as feasible in the
future.
There is an exhibition in the grounds
of the festspielhaus about Bayreuth and the Jews. Apparently, Wagner
himself was quite anti-semitic, Cosima was very anti-Semitic, and
Hitler was really not very nice at all. The exhibition is basically
photos and biogs of Jewish singers some of whom performed in the
early years but were progressively excluded by Cosima and the next
generation. Which makes the point quite interestingly.
There is a large queue outside the
bookshop opposite the cafe. I am going to go and see if Lohengrin
will sign my programme.
Love
Andrew