Dear Opera Buddy
O.K. So I have now seen Bob Dylan
perform live, heard Parsifal at Bayreuth and met Tom Baker. I can
therefore die happy. (For the avoidance of doubt, I am not intending
to, at any rate not any time soon, but it is nice to know that if the
need arose I could do so.)
I am on Munich station, or in fact in a
cafe near Munich station. I am drinking the cafe's famous cappuccino
although I must admit that I had never heard of it before. (It is
quite like other, less famous cappucino that I have drunk, only
without chocolate sprinkles.) Check out from the hotel was 12.00, and
what with breakfast and having had a more than usual amount of beer
in the hotel bar last night (having, obviously, observed a total fast
before Parsifal, unless you count a bratwurst, a mocha, and a mango
ice cream) didn't actually do anything before catching the train. The hairybuzzer doesn't fly away until 9.30 but allowing for
60 minutes to get to the air port and too much time to check in, I've only
got a couple of hours which doesn't seem long enough to venture forth
on a bus or a metro. So you have to imagine a German visitor who has
come though London but not actually gone more than a hundred feet
from Kings Cross station.
This has been true of the week in
general: you have to remember that the operas themselves run from 4PM
(doors locked, music starts) to 10.30 or so (sixteenth or seventeenth
ovation), and by the time you've got changed, availed yourself of the
pre-theatre buffet and stood around outside the theatre admiring
everyone's clothes, "going to the opera" takes from about
2PM to 11PM – which doesn't leave much space for visiting
typewriter factories.
Which reminds me: clothes. About 50% of
the men are in dinner jackets, but the other 50% are in everything
you can think of: ordinary jeans and teeshirts; a bright orange suit;
one man in full highland dress; one man in German peasant costume, if
not actually liederhosen. Women in every kind of ball gown; I don't
know about fasting, but it seems to be positively immoral to go and
see Parsifal displaying quite so much of one's boobies. A few people
tried resolutely not to clap
after act one (there were non curtain calls, mercifully) but that
tradition (the tradition of not applauding Parsifal because it isn't
an entertainment but a stage-consecration-festival-work) seem to have died out.
That's the big
deal, of course. Parsifal is a festival play for the consecration of
the Stage. The Stage being here, Bayreuth. While I think the Ring is
still my favourite opera, there is something very special and unique
about seeing this opera here. (Here in Bayreuth, I mean, not here in
the very famous capuccino cafe on Munich station.)
I think that it is fair to say that
Parsifal has created a Sensation.
Act II
finishes with Kundry on a raised dias, ranting wildly; and Klingsor
(in silk stockings, suspenders, and wings) declaiming from the
balcony, at which point huge swastikas are rolled down from the
ceiling, and a squad of men in S.S uniform march across the stage. (I
mean to say; the scene last night in which Elizabeth arguably died by
arguably walking into what was arguably a gas chamber was
understandably regarded by some as being a little near the proverbial
knuckle, but SWASTIKAS and NAZI UNIFORMS at BAYREUYTH. I didn't know
that was even legal.)
And then a little boy is raised up at the centre stage, on a raising
and lowering dias which has probably represented the Holy Grail
throughout. Parisfal has been represented, thoughout, as both a small
child in a sailor suit and the adult opera singer (also mainly in a sailor suit). The boy throws the
spear at Parsifal; Parsifal catches it. All though the production,
there has been a mound of earth at the front of the stage, and the
boy-Parsifal has been building something which could be a wall with
toy bricks on it. I would totally
have spotted that this was Wagner's grave if the man who bought the
spare ticket hadn't pointed this out to be. So man-Parsifal, holding
the spear, point in menacingly at the toy brick structure, where upon all
the swastikas fall down, and the rest of the set, collapse. It was pretty strong stuff for me; I can't imagine what it must have felt like to the Germans in the audience.
In the Arvena Kongress bar, opinion
seemed to be pretty evenly split -- between the ones who thought that it was sensational and beautiful and the ones who wanted something that was more recognizably Parsifal. My feeling is that these kinds of
productions – conceptual productions where what is going on on the
stage is suggested by the music, but isn't necessarily telling the
story of the libretto – have got to be both very interesting and
brilliantly done before they work. Lohengrin and Tannhäuser just
basically weren't good enough to get away with their ideas. (Lohegrin
was pretty but incoherent; Tannhäuser was clever, but seemed to have
attached a different story to the libretto more or less arbitrarily.)
Parsifal actually stays fairly close to the story: we have two grail
ceremonies; the healing of Amfortas; the spear; and the whole thing
is very much about Redemption. But it turns out that the story is
really about the redemption and purification of Germany in general
and Wagner's family after certain bad choices they made in the 1930s.
It also turns out that the story is at least mostly a dream; Parsifal
is the little boy who we first see playing with a toy
bow and arrow while his mother is dying, in a 19th century
bedroom in what is very probably House Wahfried. It appears that the
rest of the production is the boys dream; Kundry is a dream
projection of his mother; Gurmenez is very probably a dream
projection of his father; and Parsifal, Amfortas, Klingsor and
Titurel are all (if I have read this right) dream projections of the
boy. Oh, and everyone has wings. I didn't get the hang of that. But
characters are definitely fluid. There is a striking moment in Act I
where the boy in the sailer suit is put into Amfortas bath and comes
out as a very old man. (This happens in passing, on one side of the
stage.)
Presumably, at some point in the
development stage, all the producers get to write a word on a piece
of paper and put it into a hat, and which ever word they pick out has to
feature in every production at Bayreuth. This year the word was BABY.
So we had the embryo in Lohengrin (signifying rebirth) Venus' child
in Tannhäuser (signifying rebirth). The Grail ceremony
involved Parsifal making love to Kundry and Kundry being delivered of
a baby. The elevation of the grail is the baby being passed around
the grail knights (who are Victorian German ladies and gentlemen,
with wings, obviously.) The baby is then circumcised (at which point
Amfortas' wound starts to hurt again), a cloth is placed over him (the baby),
and he is turned into eucharistic bread and wine. Which a lot of
solidiers with points on their helmets consume before going off to,
presumably, the first world war. I have no idea. But the stage
imagery was so beautiful and striking and well staged and matching the music that understanding it would almost seem impertinent.
Act II takes us through the first and
second world wars (the flower maidens are 1920s dancers out of
Cabaret, the one rather obvious image in the whole evening) climaxing
with Parsifal taking the magic spear and bringing down Nazism with
it. I think that's three genuine coupes de theatres in two acts,
actually: the dying mother in the prelude; the bizare cannibalistic
grail ceremony; and the Nazi climax to Act II. But none of that
really prepared us for Act III.
Just let's run through the main ideas in the last act. I am probably forgetting sixteen or seventeen of them:
1: We're now looking at a stage within
a stage; there's a mini Festspielhaus proscenium arch lying back from
the front of the real stage, and its on the "model" stage
that all the action now happens.
2: The set is the ruins of the building
from Act II – the ruins of post War Germany.
3: Granted that it's taking place in
this industrial landscape on a miniature stage the opening of Act III of Parsifal is done
almost completely straight, and very powerfully: Parsifal, now old
and beardy and looking much like Amfortas comes in in armour, Kundry
removes his armour. The spear opens up a fountain at the center of
the stage (where the grail was in Act I, I think), Kundry bathes his
feet and dries them with her hair.
4: The Good Friday magic. A lot of poor
people presumably refugees, walk out onto the stage (in front of the
"model" theatre. The "model" theatre light up
with bright footlights. The poor people are brought onto the "model"
stage and given water from Parsifal's fountain. And then (there is a
little jiggery pokery with house lights coming up and stage lights
going down) a huge mirror rotates into the middle of the stage and,
we see the crowded festspielhaus audirorium reflected back at us.
Just the most fantastic image I've ever seen on the live stage; and
in combination with the Good Friday music, completeley overwhelming.
One imagines the producers brainstorming idea, and one of them saying
"follow that"....
5: ....So one of the does.The final grail ceremony....we're
back on the "model" stage, but the ruined post-war Germany
has been replaced by....a straight, realistic, modern depiction of
the German Parliament, with the chorus of knights as MPs waving their
order papers, and Amfortas addressing Tirturel's coffin wrapped in the
German flag; Parsifal wafting the spear over the heads of the MPs,
and then saying "Open the shrine..."
6: …."the shrine" is, of
course, Wagner's grave which has been at the front of the stage from
the beginning; and when it is open the little boy in the sailor suit
emerges, to be joined by Mum and Dad in a sort of holy family
tableau. A huge luminous globe is lowered from the ceiling. A dove of
peace (which could just possible be the German eagle, and therefore
the swan which Parsifal killed) hovers above it. The end.
There were things in the production
that I didn't understand and things that I thought didn't quite work
(I wasn't sure about having Parsifal in his white robes and holy
spear addressing the modern German MPs) but there was a succession of
quite fantastic imagery. I think that I "got" what was
being said: "A child is psychologically wounded; that wound
creates a nightmare which is 20th century German history;
Amfortas, Tituriel, Klingsor and Parsifal are all representation in
different ways of that basic wound; Parsifal's quest is the quest to
heal that psychological wound and its political consequences; when
that happens, the starting point – peace in the world and a happy
family – is restored. Oh, and there are wings as well."
There's apparently already been a book written to elucidate the production. I would very much like to see it again (its being shown in cinemas, I think) to try to work out all of what is going on, and unlike The One With The Rats I am quite sure that it will all turn out to have hung together.
Its now about six o clock and it
properly makes sense to head to the airport. Hopefully see you
tomorrow or the next day.
Andrew
P.S I am now at gate number something on Munich airport and flight number something has been delayed... This is your fault, Wilbur and Orville....